Sluttery Travels: The Montpellier Chapter, Cheltenham

In need of some classic rest and relaxation? I only spent a night at The Montpellier Chapter in Cheltenham but I think it was one of my most relaxing hotel stays ever. I'd quite like to cosy up in one of their fluffy white robes and spend most of the winter there if I was allowed.

It's a beautiful historic building pleasingly updated with luxury touches and contemporary technology. The furniture comes courtesy of people like Matthew Hilton and Antonio Citterio, though it's been done in a way that's not going to frighten anyone. There's lots of touches to make your stay just that bit more civilised, like coffee machines, gorgeous Ren toiletries and complimentary mini-bars in all the rooms, and large beds to sink into.

Our room was one of their feature rooms, which meant the corner of the room was dominated by a stunning Villeroy and Boch free-standing bath. For less exhibitionist washing, there was also  separate shower room complete with speakers playing whatever was on on the bedroom, so you could retain your modesty without missing any of what's happening in Made in Chelsea because you were cleaning your teeth (not that we spent any of our time in Cheltenham watching Made in Chelsea - or Neighbours, or Home and Away - you understand).

It was a pleasant surprise to come from the peace and quiet of the room to the buzzy atmosphere in the bar, library and restaurant. The Montpellier Chapter seems to be quite a hangout for Cheltenham's smart set and, alongside its extensive cocktail menu, offered hours of people watching opportunities. The uniformly friendly staff wear a uniform of suits with Converse sneakers - quite fun once I'd got over the idea that I was being served wine by a member of an early 00s indie band.

The restaurant had an open kitchen helping to add to informal feel. However, the food was anything but thrown together. There was a great range to pick from, from hearty British winter fare to a mean chestnut and mushroom risotto to a classic steak. There's even pizza if that's what'll make you happiest. I'm also very pleased to report that their cheese board catered to our local loyalties containing both Lincolnshire and Shropshire varieties.

The hotel is perfectly placed to let you stroll out to the bars of Cheltenham after your meal, but the comfort of that room was just too enticing for us. Once we emerged the next day, blinking in the day light, we enjoyed exploring the pretty little shops and cafes in the surrounding Montpellier area.

The whole pace of life seemed to slow while we were staying there, and the one downer we had was missing out on a much-needed pre-train cup of tea because the service was slightly too laid back. The flip-side of that laid-backness is that I felt just a night of staying there slowed me and calmed me down a notch too: perfect before the onslaught of Christmas begins in earnest. The Montpellier Chapter do packages including treatments for their Ren spa which sound perfect: wander from your room to the spa, amble to the bar, float to the restaurant. It makes it seem effortless and that's exactly what I want my hotel stay to be like.

We were guests of The Montpellier chapter. Regular rooms start at around £105 a night, while feature rooms start at around £165. Or really go for it and book the Penthouse suite. Then you really won't want to leave. 

Sluttery Travels: Ellenborough Park

Horses, booze, good food and soft furnishings - pretty much the fail-safe recipe if you want to make a hotel that pleases me. My young man and I nipped down to Cheltenham at the weekend to check out the luscious honeycomb fortress that is Ellenborough Park, a stately with a scandalous history (hoorah!) set in stunning Cotswold countryside next to Cheltenham Racecourse (hello ponies).


Yum, right? Thanks to interior designer Nina Campbell it's easily as gorgeous on the inside. Check out this mural on the main staircase for starters.

Gorgeous. Let's have a quick perve over some of the other features.



So this is the sitting room: beautiful lighting and jewel colours that brought to mind my beloved Sharpham Park when in its prime. There's also a little hidden away balcony on the next level up with extra sofas, and a further hidden away room. Copies of The Field and Horse and Hound were littered around along with piles of board games, a wonderful drinks table, and - glory of glories - a harp, which I, er, may have played later that evening after a couple of Blackberry Sidecars.

Our bedroom

Even though we were only there for a night, 10 minutes walking around our room made me feel like I'd been on holiday for a week. I loved the restful, pretty wallpaper, blinds and free wi-fi, while himself oohed over the wallmounted flatscreen TV, iPod dock and plethora of very chi-chi shoe shiners, umbrellas and torches squirrelled away in the wardrobe.

Our bathroom

I squealed with joy and mirth when I saw that loo - a bona fide thunderbox! As well as that lovely roll top bath, his and hers sinks, and loads of fluffy towels, there's a very powerful waterfall shower and plenty of Penhaligon's Raquets goodies.

Speaking of goodies, the spa at Ellenborough Park is absurdly wonderful. Designed by the architect rather than Campbell, it's lots of rich reds which prove relaxing rather than sexy. I had a great full-body massage with Hannah, who along with Vicky were the most welcoming and talented therapists. My boyfriend spent an hour blissed out in the sauna and hydrotherapy pool then we both staggered into the steam room for a five minute blast before having a wander round the grounds and admiring the stone work.


The Tudor Room, where we had dinner, needs more work. Scallop and noodles was fine for a starter, but my main course version was seriously rubbery, and an omelette had a very odd powdered taste to it. If we'd only eaten there we would have been very disappointed.

Happily, we'd paid to have lunch in the beautiful dining room, a palace of rich wood, stone and perfectly-judged furnishing. Snug sofas and lovely tables with lots of happy mothers being treated to Mother's Day lunch were a great surrounding for very good lamb and leeks (Welsh chef, terrific). The German sommelier recommended a 2004 Riesling that knocked our socks off. £24 for two courses or £30 for three was very good value for top quality food in a first-class environment.

Speaking of first-class, we loved the boot room, stocked with Hunter wellies, thick socks and leather boots you can borrow to go on walks - it smelled gorgeous.


Ellenborough Park is blessed with good looks, excellent staff and strong detailing that can only blossom as newness, and powdery omelettes, are rubbed off. The hotel is running introductory offers, including £150 for an overnight stay with breakfast in a traditional room, and £295 for Celebration and Relaxation breaks.

Kat was a guest of Ellenborough Park